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Step frock for your toddler

Discussion in 'Sewing & Stitching' started by artvani, Dec 7, 2011.

  1. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    This frock has got 3 steps of ruffles or frills. One is attached to the waist line and the other two are attached to the skirt portion. Skirt portion is not visible and it will be covered with ruffles .Good material is used for bodice and ruffles and ordinary material can be used for the skirt. If the frock is stitched with sheer fabric it looks great if satin is used for the lining of the bodice and also for the skirt portion.
    Instruction follows after one comment.
     

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  2. swaran

    swaran IL Hall of Fame

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    really cute frock...would look lovely on little girls :)
     
  3. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    A-D = full length of the frock
    A-C = waist length
    A-B =¼ chest
    From the points A, B, C and D draw perpendiculars
    From the points A, B, C and D draw perpendiculars for the line A-D
    On the perpendicular line at A Mark point E such that A-E= ½ shoulder + ½”.
    On the perpendicular at B mark G such that B-G =¼ chest +1½”
    On the perpendicular at C mark I such that C-I =¼ waist + 1½”.
    On the perpendicular at D mark point K such that D-K =B-G + 3”
    From the point E drop a perpendicular for the line A-E.
    Let this meet the line B-G at H.
    Join E-H. On this line Mark point F such that E-F =1”
    On the same line mark T such that H-T = 1”
    On the line A-E mark P such that A-P = neck width ⅟₁₂ chest +¼” or to taste.
    On the line A-D mark R such that A-R = front neck depth=⅟₁₂ chest +1”.
    On the same line mark Q Such that A-Q =1”
    Shape Q-p and R-P.
    Join P-F and F-H. Shape back and front armhole curves F-G and F-T-G as shown in the figure.
    While cutting fabric add ³Join G-I. On this line Mark J such that J-I = ½”.
    Join I-K. On this line Mark S such that S-K = ¾”
    Shape D-S.
    Cut the draft along the line Q-P- F –G-J-S-D.
     

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  4. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Separate skirt from the bodice by cutting along the line C-J.
    Separate bodice front from bodice back by cutting along the line Q-R-B-C. Keep one portion aside.
    It is bodice back.
    From the other portion cut front neck line R-P and front armhole shape F-T-G. This is bodice front.
    While cutting the fabric add ½” seam for the skit and the bodice along the curve C-J as shown in the figure. Add extensions for the plackets (Right and left button stands) for the right and left bodice back along the line Q-C.
     

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  5. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    [FONT=&quot]Unfold the skirt portion and divide them (Front and back) in to 3 portions by drawing lines parallel to the curve J-C-J. Measure each curve. Frills are sewn on these lines
    [/FONT] Sleeves
    Figure 3
    A-B=sleeve length + 2”
    From A and B draw perpendiculars to line A-B
    Mark D such that A-D = ¼chest+1½”
    From point D drop a perpendicular. Let it meet perpendicular from B at the point C.
    On D-C mark point E such that D-E= ⅟₁₂ chest + ¾”
    Bisect the angle ADE by a line .Let it meet the line A-E at the point G.
    Shape front and back of arm scye as shown .On line B-C mark point F such that C-F = ½”.
    Join E-F
    On this line mark k such that F-K = ½”
    Join B-K as shown.
     

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  6. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    here is the layout
     

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  7. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Bodice and frills are cut from a good material. Skirt portion is cut with an ordinary material of the same colour as frills cover the skirt portion.
    Width of the strip should be such that it covers the top seam of the frill which is just below. So the width of each strip should be equal to the distance between two lines + 1” seam for top and bottom of the strip +2” for overlapping.
    Length of each strip should be equal to 1½ time to 2 times the length of each curve.
    Stitching.
    Bodice
    Stay stitch the curves
    Stitch plackets.
    Join front and back of the bodice along the shoulder line. Finish neckline. Stitch sides.
    Skirt.
    Stitch sides matching the corresponding curves.Finish the hem.
    Mark first curve by notches and others by pencil mark into haves and quarters.
    Mark the top edge of the ruffle by notches into haves and quarters.
    Finish one long edge of the strip with narrow hem. It can also be finished by piping or lace edging. Stitch the short sides together. Mark the raw edge of the strip by notches into haves and quarters. Loosen sewing machine tension and stitch two rows of basting stitches. Lower stitch should be on seam line and the other should be near the raw edge. There are 3 steps of frills in this design.
     
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  8. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    First attach ruffles on the last curve.
    Pin the raw edge of the strip to the curve, right sides together and matching the marking or notches done to mark the quarters and halves. The finished edge of the strip should come towards the waist line and raw edge should face the hem of the skirt as shown in the figure. Working on one section at a time, grab both bobbin threads and start pulling until the ruffle length is the same as the garment between the 2 pins. Distribute the gathers evenly and secure them with pins at places. Secure the ruffles in place by running stitch. Finally machine stitch them together. This step can be avoided if you feel comfortable with sewing with pins coming in the way. Flip the ruffle to right side top stitch.
     

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  9. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Follow the same procedure to stitch the ruffle to the middle curve.
     

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  10. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Now we have to attach the first step of ruffles

    Pin the ruffle to the waist line keeping wrong side of the strip together with right side of the skirt and matching the markings. Here the finished edge of the ruffle should face the hem. The rest of the procedure is same as before. Attach the skirt with ruffles to the bodice and finish the garment
     

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