Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instructions

Re: kajori salwar

I have just received my kajori salwar suit from arbaztailors and i so love it

Arbaztailors has requested that there website link gets removed as they have received so many junk emails and can no longer have access to their mails :thumbsup

 

Re: kajori salwar

Hi Mayru,

Glad that you have received your kajori Salwar. Would it be ok for you to share a picture of the same?

 

Re: kajori salwar

hi sunitha............i would like to know wot is kowl salwarbonk i have done patiyala and pumpkin wot is kowl?can u share the draft wid us?:cheers

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi Sabari,

Here is what I am trying to convey. I have just drawn a picture by hand and tried to explain the problem. If its more confusing than clear, please excuse me.

The sleeve is generally drafted as in picture 1. The curve AE is for back and Ed is for front arm hole.

When the sleeve is joined to the bodice in picture 2 (orange color), the curve ED is joined along PQR of the armhole and EA along PSR of the arm hole. After this the sleeve and bodice are joined sideways to complete the side seam. While doing this, AB of sleeve will be joined with CD. Suppose X and Y are the points on the sleeve along which the seam has to be sewn. While doing this, I get a difference in the joined sleeve as in picture 3. ie., BFC will not form a straight line. FC will be lower than BF.

Does that require too much of imagination to understand my explanation? Please let me know how to overcome this problem. Thanks in advance. You have been very quick in responding to my queries.

 

Re: kowl salwar

Hi Meyyammai,

Please see the picture of the Kowl salwar that I have stitched. I think it is also called the Dhoti salwar (not sure though). I would say it is more or less opposite of the patiala salwar. As for the draft, I will need some time to document is well and post it. But will surely do it and share it here. BTW how does a pumpkin salwar look like? I must visit you sometime and learn a lot of stuff (just rob you off all the nice tricks and tips ). Hope I will be able to meet you soon.

 

Re: kowl salwar

thanks sunitha for ur prompt reply i haven't done this i ll try that i am stitching a pumpkin salwar i ll post once it is done u r most welcome to my house at any time (sure to teach u wot i know):cheers

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi sunita,

y'r observation is true. Sewing is more about fitting, which means that a few simple adjustments have to be made here and there.

u said that after attaching the sleeve to the armhole, u join the side seams, AB_CD. What i do is:

1. Tag the arm hole to the sleeve.
2. sew AB_CD first, so that BFC is in a st. line. The base should be straight. The sleeve curve on top need not be uniform, which means the back curve of the sleeve could be more and that of the front smaller / lesser.
3. Sew the tagged piece [ arm hole-sleeve] so as to adjust the curve accordingly that they overlap.
4. Check for the uniformness / smoothness of the fitting on the right side.

Try this once and u should be perfect. But , tag the arm hole to the sleeve first before sewing.

I have a doubt in the patiala draft. The draft is for a full / complete patiala. How does it differ from a semi-patiala? What adjustment/inclusion needs to be made i the construction/ calculation? And , what is the cloth requirement for this semi patiala?

regards,
sabari

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi Sabari,

Thanks for that real quick response. I do tag the sleeve before sewing. I will try your method too and see how it works for me. I generally give a notch for the sleeve at E so that it always aligns at the shoulder seam. That way, I do not move it back and forth.

I hope your method solves my problem. As for the Patiala salwar, I have not learnt the semi patiala style. Will try to check out at class next time and let you know. As what I know, Semi patiala will not have pleats till the back. But the cutting and other stuff remain the same.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

hi sunitha.....can i step in?is that the armside of the sleeve and the body weh attached ur sleeve length is not correct ?is this wot u r asking for the sleeve cutting as said by sabari we have a second cutting it should form the front side of the sleeve and if u stitch along the sean allowence wot u give it should be perfectif u go beyond the seam allowence then it ll not match am i clear have i confused u more? any doubts ask i ll try to clarify:cheers

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi ,

just checking y'r other posts.......
pumpkin and kowl salwar.. can u or saheli sunita kindly explain the draft to me?

regards,
sabari.