Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafts & Ideas

Kurth without kali or Nehru shirt

This type of shirt is usually worn with dothi or Pyjama.Neck is finished with stand collar or bound hem.We can call this kurtha with out kali.Looks grand with embroidery.Neck line can be stitched with bound hem or stand collar.

Measurements
Chest
Shoulder
length
neck round

Body front and back

A-B= full length +1”
A-C=¼ chest
A-D = waist length
Draw perpendiculars from A, C, D and B
A-E =½ shoulder +¼”
C-H =¼ chest +2”. For boys add 1½”
C-G =A-E-¼”
E-F =1¼”
G-P=1” Shape armhole of scye H-P-F of body front.
P-J =1” Shape armhole of scye H-J-F of body back.
D-I is C-H -½”
B-L =C-H +2”
K-L=½”
Shape side seam H-I-K
Shape bottom curve B-K.
A-N=1/6th neck. A-O =¾”, Shape back neck curve N-O
A-M =1/6th neck + ¼”. Shape front neck curve N-M

Sleeves

A-I =Sleeve length +½”.
C-A =1/12th chest +½”. Draw perpendicular from C to the line A-I.
C-D =¼ chest less ½”
Join A-D. F is it’s midpoint. H is the midpoint of F-D
H-I =¾” and F-J =¾”. Shape back curve A-J-D and front curve A-F-D
E-I =1/6th chest .Join E-I and D-E.

Collar

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is midpoint.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

 

Chudidar pyjama

Chudidar pyjama is a pyjama with fullness at the top and tightly fitted below the knee level. Length of the pyjama will be more than the actual length .There will be gathers below the calf.Chudidar goes well with Anarkali top.

Chudidar is cutting is done on bias .It can be done in two ways.
Method 1.By keeping the draft on the material in bias.
Method 2. By preparing a bias bag.
Here I have explained method 1

Measurements

1.Full length
2.Seat
3.Knee round
4.Bottom round

Instruction for drafting

A-D =full length
D –E = for gathers =3 to 5” or to taste
E-F =I” for folding.
A-G =1⅛” for casing
A-B = 1/3 seat + 1”
C is the midpoint of B-D.
Draw perpendiculars from the points G, A, B, C, D, E and F
G-H= 1/3 seat+ 2”to 4” as per wish
G-H = A-I = B-K.
K-R =1½” to 2”
R-L =1½”
J is the midpoint of I-K
Shape the front curve H- I-J-R and back curve (red curved line) H- I- L as shown in the figure.
C-M =half of knee round + ½”
N-E =half of bottom round +½”
R-N =4” to 6” for opening
Join the curve R-M-N-O and L-M-N-O as shown on the figure
Red line is back shape of the chudidar

 

Re: Chudidar pyjama

Hi Hemalatha ,
Just google search "Anarkali salwar top" you will get many sites that teaches you the method of cutting and drafting.