Patiala salwars need more cloth than a simple salwar. While simple salwars need only around 2 ½ mtrs of fabric, patiala salwar needs nearly 4 to 4.5 mtrs of fabric.

A Patiala salwar has 3 parts:

1 waist belt
2 pieces of panel (one for each leg)
and 4 triangle shaped pieces (two for each leg)

Given below is the construction and method for stitching a patiala salwar. 
Measurements needed

Length of the salwar =40″
Hip = 38″
waist = 32″
Round ankle = (a.k.a. paicha ) 15” + 1” for seam or stitch allowance
What I have taken here are my measurements, it is only for reference. Take your own measurements to stitch the patiala salwar.


patiyala tutorial-2013-08-14-13.50.21.jpg

For the legs
ABEF=CDFE= ( 4 triangle shaped pcs)
AE=DF = salwar length – waist BELT (40″ – 7″ = 33″ + seam allowance 2.5″ = 35.5″ )
AB=CD = Fabric width = 45″ (we will need 4 pieces of these triangles, 45″ each(2 for each leg)
EC=BF= Crotch length = 7.5″ + 1″ seam allowance = 8.5″

PQRS = Belt (1piece)
PQ=RS= total waist+ 8″+ ( seam allowance aka s.a.) 1″ = 32″+8″+1″ = 41″
PR=QS= Belt length + s.a = 7″ + 1.5″ = 8.5″ 

WXYZ = Side panel ( 2pieces)
WX=YZ= 15″ (With s.a)
WY=XZ= salwar length- belt length +s.a = 40″-7″+2.5 = 35.5 ( just like AE=DF)


First take the required amount of cloth and open fully. Then fold it into half in the reverse side such that the two ends of the cloth are on top of each other.

Take AB=CD= full fabric width i.e. 45″ both layers. 
Now take 8.5″ for crotch and cut ABEF and CDFE ( it will make 4pc. of triangles)
Now join the panel leg to the triangle legs just as the picture below ( this will be done by attaching triangle pcs. and one panel pc. for each leg) 
Make 2 of this ( the total width of this will be around 120″ for each leg)

patiyala tutorial-2013-08-14-13.51.04.jpg

Now join the crotches of both the full flair kalis and attach it to the back of the belt to side of the thighs ( just like the simple salwar) and the remaining fabric will be folded in pleats inwards just as the picture below

patiyala tutorial-2013-08-14-14.22.23.jpg

After it is attached to the belt, stitch the insides of the leg making paicha ( the round at the ankle) 14″ to 15″ as per your preference.
Your patiyala is ready. 
For queries and sending in the pictures of the patiala you have made Join the Discussion