Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial From ArtVani

Re: Perparation of "Bias bag " for Cutting chudidar

next steps............

 

Re: Perparation of "Bias bag " for Cutting chudidar

Finally place the draft on the bias bag and cut.

 

Method of stitching patiyala salwar

Preparation of the draft

E-G =full length –length of the waistband +2½”.
Mark point I such that E-I = E-G – 3”.
Draw perpendiculars from E, I and G.
E-F =panel width=Leg round + 2 to 4” depending upon the built of the person.
I – J = E-F.
G-H =leg round/2 + 1”. Join F-G-and H.

Kali

K-M = F-J of the side Panel.
K-O = crotch depth - waist band length + 1”.
Draw perpendicular from K and O.
K-L = width of the material used for stitching.
O-N = K-L .Join L and N. Join M-N by curved line as shown in the figure.

prepare the draft Place the draft on the fabric as shown in the layout in Figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. Cut kali along the line K-M and
separate

Pattern pieces

Waist band -2nos
Side panels –2 no’s
Kali-4 nos

Stitching

Turn in 2” of the leg round H-G-H’, and stitch sandwiching 1½” of canvas in between the folds
Take one of the side panel and attach kali on either side as shown in the figure 4. Do the same thing for the other side panel.Fold this into half along the line E-G, keeping right sides together and stitch

the curve M-N as shown in the figure 5 Stitch the other leg portion also in the same manner.

Keeping right sides together join these two leg portions at the crotch line as shown in the figure 6.
Join the two pieces of the waist band. Keeping right sides together pin front crotch seam (select any one ) to front waist band seem(select anyone). and back crotch seem to back waist band seem. Attach each leg portion with the waist band by taking pleats of equal width .The pleats should start from the center of the front portion of the waist band and

extend up to the center of the back of the waist band. The pleats of each leg portion should be facing each other.
Fold the other edge of the waste band by 1” and prepare casing for the draw string.

Continued.....

 

Re: Method of stitching patiyala salwar

Continued...............

 

Sewing Zip to the garment

Attach facing to the neck line. (I have shown only the back side of the garment here) Press under the seam allowances of the back opening.
Close the zip. Mark the length of the zip on the garment. Stitch the seams together on the fold line till the mark and press the seams open
Pin the zip to the edges to the folded seam allowance such that the center line of the zipper coincides with the edges of the seam allowances and the zipper tab end should be placed ½” below the neck line seam. Trim off the zipper tape just below the neck line. Baste the zipper to the garment. Do the same thing for the other side also
Using the zipper foot machine stitch the zipper to the garment. . Fold the neck facing and finish the neck line using hem stitch.Please see the images according to the steps, they are not in order.
One image follows

 

Re: Sewing Zip to the garment

continued.............................

 

re: Princess Cut Blouse Draft

I think it is a variation of princess cut blouse.I have shown the changes to be made in the draft of the front.Same thing holds good for the back.Let us wait for some more suggestions