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Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial From ArtVani

Discussion in 'Sewing & Stitching' started by artvani, May 2, 2009.

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  1. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Hi All
    Please find the FB thread here

    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/s...ing-tailoring-stitching-tutorial-artvani.html


    hi LathaRajadorai.the method I am going to explain gives very good finishing..After cutting the main draft, keep the front neck portion on a different cloth, and mark the neck shape and cut 2" width A'B'C'E' keeping same shape.Do the same for the back neck also..These stripes are called facing..Join shoulder portion of the bodice.Join the shoulder portion of the facing.Keeping right side together, matching AA'BB'CC'DD' andEE"" join the facing to the neck ,make a small cut at the corners and reverse it. Hem the facing to the garment.Facing can be cut using matching fabric I usually join the left over bits of cloth after cutting the main garment and from that cut the neck facing.
     

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  2. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Draft For Simple Pinnafore

    Draw lines on the Simple pinafore draft as shown in the figure (pink dotted lines) For simple pinafore dress draft please refer Vani's blog: Simple pinafore dress
    Bib -Cut along UNMI (IU on fold) ---2 pieces
    Waist band- Cut along U’N’OV (U’V ‘on fold width U'V’ being double the width UV in the skirt)—2 pieces
    Back skirt - Cut along VOHB (VB on fold)
    Front skirt – Cut along VTPHB (VB on fold)
    Pocket layer 1 - Cut along STOPQRS
    Pocket layer 2- Cut along STPQRS
    See the different parts in the figure.
    While cutting on the material leave ½” all around except for the sides for seams
    Stitching
    Skirt front -Keep pocket layer 2 on skirt front, right sides together along the curve TP .clip at 2 or 3 places .turn the pocket layer inside and press.
    Keep and pin the skirt front on the right side of the pocket layer 1 such that points TSRQP Match (consider all the three layers-Skirt front, pocket layer1 and pocket layer 2).Stitch pocket layer1 to pocket layer 2 along the line SRQ Baste the pocket to the skirt along the line ST and PQ.Other side of the pocket is also stitched in the same manner.
    Stitch the Waist band along VO to the skirt front keeping wrong side of the skirt and the right side of the band together. Press .Fold ½” along the line U’N’ and again fold to the front and stitch to the right side of skirt along the line VTO. Waist band is attached to the skirt back in the same manner.
    Bib- Bias bind arm hole and neck line .Attach bib to the waist band keeping the waist band ½” above the line UN of the bib
    Stitch the sides of the skirt together
    Shoulder straps –Fold ½” and stitch along the length of the shoulder strap. Attach them to the front and back of the bib. stitch the bottom hem by folding 1". Finally top stitch as in the dress.( Please note that draft is not to scale)

    Please Reply Or clear your doubts through FeedBack(FB) thread

    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/s...ing-tailoring-stitching-tutorial-artvani.html
     

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  3. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Fairy's costume

    Fairy’s costume is nothing but a skirt with plenty of gathers with wings .It can be mini, midi or maxi skirt. It can be with puff sleeves or sleeveless.It looks good if it is stitched with thin material with matching satin lining. Pastel colours are suitable. Bodice is stitched first .Then the skirt portion is attached. Gathers should be more .It will be nice if the width of the skirt is thrice the chest.
    Wings are prepared separately.
    Continued...............
     

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  4. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Re: Fairy's costume

    Continued..........

    Bodice front and back


    Keep A-C on Fold. A-C = Waist length + ½”.
    A-O =¼ chest-½”.
    From the points A, O, and C draw perpendiculars.
    A-B = ½ shoulder width + ¼”
    A-N =1/12 th chest +¼” or to taste
    A-I =1/12th chest +½” or to taste
    A-H = 1½”. Shape back neck N-H and front neck N-I as shown in the figure
    O-D =¼chest +1½” .O-D =C-E
    M-E =⅛” .Join D-M.
    B-G =½”. Join N-G
    F-J =1”.Shape G-D back armhole and G-J-D front armhole as shown in the figure.
    L is half of C-M.A dart of ⅛” is taken along the line K-L as shown in the figure.
    Sleeves
    M-N= ¼ chest +1½”.N-P =sleeve length+2” for puff +½ for folding
    N-P =M-O.
    M-Q = 1/12 th chest+¾”.Join Q-N
    O-T=¾”Join Q-T
    S-T = ½”M-R = 1/12th chest. R-U =¾”.
    Shape Back arm round Q-R-N, front arm round Q-U-N and P-S

    Skirt .Gathers should be more .It will be nice if the width of the skirt is thrice the chest. You can stitch full length skirt or knee length skirt.
    Continued.................
     

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  5. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Wings

    Take two aluminum hangers. Cut and remove the hooked portion and straighten the wire. Cut a template of a wing with a card board. Keeping this as a model, shape the aluminum wire. Prepare two wing shapes with the wire. Cover the wire with thin gold ribbon with the help of glue. Cover the shapes with tissue material or netted material. Join the two wings in the middle. Two straps stitched with the material of the dress are attached to the wings as shown in the figure, distance between them being equal to shoulder width. .After wearing the dress tie the wings near the armholes.

    hello vani
    d drafting given by u of fairy's costume is awesum
    but i didnt undestood tht how v wll tie d wings on d arm holes if u can clarify tht
    i ll b really obliged

    thnx
    kajola

    Two straps( purple one in this figure ) stitched with the material of the dress are attached to the wings as shown in the figure (see yellow points) , distance between them being equal to shoulder width. .After wearing the dress tie the wings at armholes.Take one end of the strap under the armhole and take the other end above the shoulder and tie in front it like a bow.Do the same thing for the other side also
     

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  6. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Puffed sleeve from plain sleeve

    Please find FB on this topic here

    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/s...g-tailoring-stitching-tutorial-artvani-2.html

    Puffed sleeve has gathers at the armhole as well as at the sleeve round. There are several types of puffed sleeves. At the edge of the sleeve some will have sleeve band, some will have piping and some will have open gathers .Some will have more fullness at the top as well as at the bottom. Some will be tight the bottom and very loose at the top. Mutton leg sleeve will have more fullness at the top and will be tight fitting at the bottom. On the whole the shape of the puff sleeves depends upon the gathers.
    Plain sleeve draft can be converted to various types of puff sleeves.
    Plain sleeves
    Measurements needed
    Sleeve length
    Sleeve round
    Chest
    Mark B-D on fold = Sleeve length +½” (Shaded portion is 1” for in turn for plain sleeve.)
    D-C =1/12 Th chest+½”
    Draw perpendiculars from D, C, and B
    D-E =¼ chest -1”
    D-E =C-F
    B-J=sleeve round + ½”
    Join D-F and F-J
    Divide D-F into four equal parts by points G,H and I. Draw perpendiculars from those points such that
    G-K= ¼”, H-L=½” and I-M=¼”
    Join the points F-K-H-M-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the front portion of the sleeve.
    Join the points F-L-D -by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the back portion of the sleeve.
    Cut the paper draft along the line B-J-F-L-M-D. Open the fold .and cut along the curved line F-K-H-M-D.
    This is the draft of basic plain sleeve. Outline of the draft is traced on a fairly thick card board and a block is prepared which can be used as foundation for all other types of sleeves.

    Continued.................
     

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  7. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    "puffed sleeves from plain sleeve "continued

    Draw the outline of the basic plain sleeve on a brown paper and divide it in to 4 equal parts (fig 3) label them as 1, 2, 3 and 4 On another sheet of paper draw a line and arrange the four portions in the same order in the same order leaving gaps between each portion such that the new distance between J and J’ is 1½ times the original J-J’ measurement. Spaces between the four portions should be equal. Secure the portions to the sheet with pins.
    Mark D’ ¾” above D and B’ ¾ below B and draw connecting lines between the four portions as shown by dotted line in the figure 5.cut along the line J’-B-J F- D-’F’and J’.T his is the draft of the puffed sleeve
     

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    Last edited: Nov 18, 2009
  8. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    re: How to Cut Puffed Sleeves?

    Hi sabri
    I have given sleeve width as 1/4 chest+1"+1/4" not 1/12th chest.In plain sleeve we take 1/4 chest -1" as sleeve width .Totally we get 4"+1/2" for gathers(in width) In length extra 2" is there for puff.Which method do you follow?
     
  9. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Re: How to do puff sleeve?

    Step 1.
    Make the paper draft of plain sleeve (figure 1)

    Step 2.
    Divide them in to parts by drawing lines and number
    them.(figure 2)

    Step 3.
    On another sheet of paper draw a line (pink line in fig.3)Arrange them in order leaving gaps between the pieces.(as shown in figure 3.)Mark points D'and F'and shape the sleeves as shown in the figure by green line ED'C and AF'B.

    Step 4
    Remove the paper sections of plain sleeve.Draft of puff sleeve is obtained(Fig 4)

    Step 5
    Keep the draft on the fabric and cut the sleeves
    Step 6.
    Two rows of loose running stitches are made at the top and bottom of the sleeve. (Fig 6).Ends of the threads are pulled to make gathers.
    These gathers are adjusted such that Point D coincides with shoulder line and armhole(sye) round is equal to the top of the sleeve .Bottom of the sleeve should be equal to the sleeve width.sleeve edge is stitched with sleeve band or piping
     

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  10. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Perparation of "Bias bag " for Cutting chudidar

    Here are the images of the various steps in preparing bias bag.First try it out on an old material like old duppatta or sari.and then on new fabric.
     

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