Petal sleeve from palin sleeve

I have up loaded in 3 different parts as I cannot up load more than 5 images in one post.


Measurements needed
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
Chest
Mark B-D on fold = Sleeve length +½” (Shaded portion is 1” for in turn for plain sleeve.)
D-C =1/12 Th chest +½”
Draw perpendiculars from D, C, and B
D-E =¼ chest -1”
D-E =C-F
B-J=sleeve round + ½”
Join D-F and F-J
Divide D-F into four equal parts by points G,H and I. Draw perpendiculars from those points such that
G-K= ¼”, H-L=½” and I-M=¼”
Join the points F-K-H-M-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the front portion of the sleeve.
Join the points F-L-D -by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the back portion of the sleeve.
Cut the paper draft along the line B-J-F-L-M-D. Open the fold .and cut along the curved line F-K-H-M-D.
This is the draft of basic plain sleeve. Outline of the draft is traced on a fairly thick card board and a block is prepared which can be used as foundation for all other types of sleeves.
Continued............

 

Step 1 prepare the basic plain sleeve draft (Figure 1) Step 2 Open the fold (Figure 2)

Place this on a folded sheet of paper and cut the shape. This is done as we have to cut the draft in duplicate) Figure 3 shows right and wrong side of the draft. X-Y is the mid line of the draft. A-C and B-D are the sides.
Fold and place sides A-C and B-D on to the center line X-Y as shown in the figure 4
Crease the folds and open. Mark these fold lines as E-F and G-H.
Mark a point O on the line X-Y such that Y-O = 2 to 2½” Join the points B-G and E-D as shown in the figure 4. These lines should pass through the point O.
Copy these lines on the draft below using a carbon paper.
Take one draft and cut along the line B-G. On the duplicate draft cut along the line D-E as shown in the figure 5
We get 2 pieces of the petal sleeve. Add an extra ½” to the sides for seams as shown in figure 6.

There is another method in which we get the sleeve in a single piece. Place line A-B and C-D side by side and join them with cello tape
This is the draft of petal sleeve in one piece.
Method of sewing.
While cutting the fabric mark the points A, X and G by cutting notches.
Double piece petal sleeve
Curves B-G and E-D are sleeve edges. These can be finished with matching lace or piping. If the material is thin it can be finished with a fitted facing. It gives good finishing.
Curves A-E-X-G and E-X-G-C are to be attached to the armhole.
Place pieces one above the other in such a way Points E, X, G and O coincide. See Figure 8 .Fix these positions by putting a running stitch as shown in the figure. Pin Point X to the shoulder line of the bodice. Points A-and B to the sides of the bodice and attach the sleeve to the armhole. Sides of the sleeve and bodice are sewn at one stretch.
Single piece petal sleeve.
Fold the sleeve along the line CA-BD .Overlap the two edges in such a way points E-X- G of one side coincides the points E-X-G on the other side and fix them with running stitch. Sew sides of the bodice
Keeping right sides together pin the bodies to the sleeve. Pin point AC to the side seam of the armpit of the bodice and point X to the shoulder line and sew them together.

 

continued.............

 

I am expecting feedback from you !

 

I some times write the explanations on the image itself.I post these topics in my blog also.there I can post it in a different manner Figure follows explanations.here I cannot post in that order. if write it on the image it will be difficult to correct if there is any mistake.So I am doing like this.I cannot prepare one set for my blog and another set for IL.it takes time.I hope one day we can post explanation below each image.Or am i not aware of it?If so please guide me.I will give you one suggestion Open IL twice.In one you see the images and in an other read the explanation.