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Method of sewing katori blouse

Discussion in 'Sewing & Stitching' started by artvani, May 19, 2011.

  1. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Basic sari blouse draft of front and back are prepared on a folded sheet of paper. Folded sheet is cut along the fold line and the draft of the back is removed. The remaining details are drawn on the front portion. For basic sari blouse draft please refer
    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/s...hing/129186-method-of-sewing-sari-boluse.html
    see Figure 1
    Step 1
    Mark A-B the full length of blouse + 1” on the fold line.
    On this line Mark point K such that A-K = back neck depth =¹/12th chest or to taste.
    Mark point L on the line A-B such that A-L =front neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
    Mark point D on the line the line A-B such that A-D = scye depth = ¼ chest-1¼ or 1½.
    For details about scye depth refer
    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/s...hing/129186-method-of-sewing-sari-boluse.html
    A-M = front length + ½”.
    Draw perpendicular lines to the line A-B from the points A, D, M and B.
    On the perpendicular line at A mark A-C = ½ shoulder + ¼ “.
    On the perpendicular line at D mark point E such that D-E = ¼ chest +1½”.
    On the perpendicular line at M mark point N such that M-N = D-E.
    On the perpendicular line at B Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
    From the point C drop a Perpendicular. It meets the line D-E at the point H.
    On the line C-H mark points R such that C-R = ½” or ¾”.
    Join the points G and R.
    Mark point J on the line C-H such that J-H = 1”.
    Mark point I on the line B-F such that I-F = ½” Join the points E and I.
    Line E-I intersects the line M-N at the point O.
    Join points K and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is back neck line.
    Join points L and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is Front neck line.
    Now cut along the line K-G-R-E-O-I-B.
    Separate front and back draft by cutting along the fold line K-L-D-M-B.
    Keep back draft (on which there are no markings) aside.
    Step 2
    see Figure 2
    Take the front draft on which neck and front scye Markings are there.
    On the line D-E mark point Z such that Z-H = 1/2' to 3/4".This is for the bust measurements up to 33".For bust size more than 33" shift the point Z to towards H and continue.
    S is the midpoint of D-Z.
    From the points S and Z drop perpendiculars. These lines meet the line M-N at point 2 and 3. respectively. On the line S-2 mark point T such that S-T =1/8th chest -1½”.
    For further details about the point T see
    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/s...hing/129186-method-of-sewing-sari-boluse.html

    Through the point T and on either side, draw a line parallel to the line M-N. This line cuts the line A-M. at the point 4 and the line Z-3 at the point V.
    On the line A-M mark point P such that 4-P = 1”. This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1¼” or 1½”
    On the line Z-3 mark point Q such that V-Q = 1”.This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1¼” or 1½”
    Join P-T and T-Q.
    Paste a small piece of paper of width 2” along P-X outside the line A-M.
    Produce the line V-4 to U such that length of line P-T + the length of the line T-Q = length of the line V-U.
    Paste a small piece of paper of width 2” along the line M-N.
    Produce line 4-M to X such that 4-X = P-M.
    Produce line V-3 to W such that V-W =Q-3.
    Join U-X. On U-X mark point Y such that X-Y = 1”.
    Join W-Y by a curved line as shown in the figure.
    Produce T-2. It cuts the line W-Y at point 5. At this point take a dart of ½”.
    Point 1 is the midpoint of the front neck line. L-G. Join 1 and Z by a curved line as shown in the figure.
    There are three pieces in the draft. I have coloured them with different colours .Please see figure 3.
    We have to separate them.
    Piece no 1 is side piece.
    Piece no 2 is Katora piece .
    Piece no 3 is Under bust piece.
    Cut front neck line along the line L-I-G.Cut along the shoulder line G-R and front scye shape R-J-E. Cut along the E-O. Cut along O-3.
    Cut along the curve 1-Z-Q-V- 3. This is piece no 1 or side piece.
    To separate piece no 2 or Katora from piece no 3 or under bust piece cut along the line P-T-Q.
    Cut along the line U- 4 -T-V-3-W-5- X-Y-U to get under bust piece.
    Fig 4
    Waist band

    1-2 = (A-B - A-M )=(Full length of the blouse– Front length of the blouse) +½”.
    2 to 4 = M-O (refer fig 2) -1”.
    4-3 = 1 to 2 -¾ or 1”.
    4 to 5 = ½”.
    Join 1 and 3 by a curved line as shown.
    Join 3 and 5.
    Cot along 1-3-5-2-1.

    Sleeves
    Refer sari blouse

    While cutting the fabric take ½” extra for seams as shown in the figure 5 by dotted lines. Arrow mark shows length wise of the cloth. To get good fitting the Katora piece which is coloured in green should be cut on bias as shown in the figure 5.
    Stitching

    Fold the under bust piece which is coloured blue along the line T-5 and stitch ½” dart. Open the fold and press .See Figure 6
    Place the under bust cover on the katora ,Keeping right sides together and place D’ on D, C’ on C and B’ on B . See figure 7. Stitch them together along the line D-C-B, ¼” from edge. Make small snips along the stitched edge taking care to not cut the stitches. Open and press. See figure 7.
    Keep the side piece which is coloured pink on katora and under bust which are stitched together, keeping right sides together and Point A on A’ G on G’ and stitch ¼” away from the curved edge . Make small snips and turn the seam and press. See Figure 8
    Out of 4 waist band pieces take 2 pieces of the belt and stitch them together along the edge I-J and turn the seam inside fold and press. Place the belt on under bust piece and side piece which are stitched together, matching points F and F’ and H and H’. See figure 9.
    This is left front of the blouse. Stitch right front also in the same manner.

    Complete sewing the blouse as an ordinary sari blouse.

    Please note that images are not in order
     

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  2. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Katori blouse images continued
     

    Attached Files:

  3. incharge

    incharge Bronze IL'ite

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    Thanks Vani for the detailed procedure. and the efforts you made to upload. Thanx a lot.:thumbsup
     
  4. manjubashini

    manjubashini IL Hall of Fame

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    Nicely explained mam. I have stitched it many times what it happens u know left hand side and right hand side it differs and the cup points are not in proper place. what may be the defect pl explain. Thanks
     
  5. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    Hi, Manju bashini.
    the Calculations that are given are in general.It varies from person to person.Take actual body measurements of D-S and G-T . You will get good fitting.
     
  6. manjubashini

    manjubashini IL Hall of Fame

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    Thanks Vani let me try it again. its only a small defect i think it may be due to the button patti which i stitch there is some gadbad. may be i have to stitch it in differ way for katori blouse not as for normal blouse.
     
  7. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

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    while cutting the material leave 1/4" seams on button patti sides also. see the figure that I have posted.then Gad bad will not happen!stitching is just like normal blouse only.
     
  8. harina

    harina Gold IL'ite

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    Thank you Vani so much for the detailed instructions of stitching a katori blouse....
    surely i will do stitch one and post it ...................thank you once again........
    wishes..........harina
     
  9. Swastik

    Swastik New IL'ite

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    Thanks for sharing :)
     
  10. simply_doubtful

    simply_doubtful Gold IL'ite

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    Hi Vani garu,
    I have a doubt in stitching back neck of a blouse or a salwar. I use facing cloth for stitching front neck. do we use the same facing cloth for back of a salwar neck. or do we use cross cut pieces like in a blouse? Please clarify my doubt.
    Hansika
     

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