1. Looking for an Interesting Craft Project? : Plethora of Ideas
    Dismiss Notice

Method of sewing a sari boluse

Discussion in 'Sewing & Stitching' started by artvani, Mar 21, 2011.

  1. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

    Messages:
    1,631
    Likes Received:
    533
    Trophy Points:
    208
    Gender:
    Female
    [FONT=&quot]Sari blouse is worn along with a sari, as its name suggests. As soon as a sari is bought matching blouse is stitched. Blouse can be of the colour of the border of the sari or the colour of body of the sari. People who are short it is advisable to wear the blouse that matches the body of the sari. Contrast colour blouses can be worn along with plain sari. Blouse with cute prints looks good with a plain sari. Sari blouses should be created with a full opening either in the front or in the back.
    There are many varieties of blouses. They may have long or short sleeves or sleeveless and the blouse length can vary from very short to waist length with varieties of necklines and back patterns.
    Sari blouse is a tight fitting garment. It should be custom made. I have explained here the basic method of drafting a sari blouse. It is advisable to prepare a paper draft and then the fabric is cut. A trial blouse is stitched first with a cheap material. There might be some wrinkles here and there which can be corrected in the paper draft while stitching the next blouse. The difficult part in stitching sari blouse is attaching the sleeves to the body. I feel it is better to attach the sleeves to the body with running stitch. Stitch the sides of sleeves and sides of the body also with running stitch. Wear the blouse and check for any wrinkles. Corrections can be made at this point. When you are satisfied with the fitting machine stitch the blouse. Thus the blouse draft can be standardized

    [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Measurements needed[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    Chest
    Full length of the blouse
    Shoulder
    Sleeve length
    Sleeve round[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]Front length-Measured from shoulder along the highest point of bust[/FONT][FONT=&quot]to where bra cup ends.[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]
    For taking body measurements please refer[/FONT][FONT=&quot]my previous posts a[/FONT][FONT=&quot]nd also the above figure 1[/FONT]
    Front

    A to B= front length + ½”.
    A to C = ½ shoulder + ¼”.
    On the line A-B mark D such that A-D =¼ chest -1¼” or 1½”.
    A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be calculated using the chest measurement.It can also be measured directly on the body. It is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that joins armpits. refer this figure 1
    ..Scye depth for various breast measurements

    28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
    31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
    34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
    37 “ to 39” = 2¼” to 2¾”
    40 to 42 =3” to 3½”

    Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line A-B.
    On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
    Mark H on A-B such that A-H =neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
    Shape front neck curve H-G.
    Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
    Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
    Produce D-E to K such that E-K=. ½”.
    Mark L on B-F such that L-F =½’
    Join K-L.
    On the line D-E mark point I such that D-I = ½” less than A-C.
    Join I-C .On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R =½” or ¾”. Join G-R.
    On the line I-C mark a point J such that I-J =1”.
    Shape the scye round R-J-E-K.
    On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S =1/12th chest +¾”.
    On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M =1”.Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
    Drop a perpendicular from the point S. This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark point T which is the bust point It can be marked in two ways.

    Method 1

    Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest-1½”.

    Method 2

    Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along the line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.

    Darts

    All the darts should point towards the bust point T
    Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N =S-T. Take ½” or ¾” dart
    At point P a dart of 1¼” to 2” dart of required length is taken
    On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L = 1” take a dart of ¾” wide and of required length.
    At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.



    Belt

    U-V= Full length of the blouse –Front length +½”.
    V-W =B to F -1½”( size of the dart taken).
    W –X =U-V -1”.
    Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
    Y-W= ½”.
    Join X-Y..
    Back
    A-B =Full length of the blouse +1”
    A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.
    Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.
    A-C= ½ shoulder + ¼”.
    Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
    Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
    I- F=½” .Join E-I.
    On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
    Mark K on A-B such that A-H = Back neck depth =1/12th chest or to taste.
    Shape back neck curve K-G.
    On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C. Join H-C.
    On the line H-C mark a point J such that C-R =1”.
    Shape the Back scye round R-E.
    B-L=1/12th chest +½”. A dart L-M of ½” width and of required length is taken here.

    Sleeves

    A-B= sleeve length + ½”.
    K=A =1"” for folding.
    From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
    B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + ½" to 1½ “.
    For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth .
    B-C =K-L.
    Join C-L.
    Mark D on the line C-L such that D-C =1/8th chest -½”. It should be between 3 to 3½”
    B-J = 1”.
    Join D-B .F is the middle point of D=B . F-H =¾”
    G is the middle point of D-F. I-G= ½”
    Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F- J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B.
    A-E = ½ sleeve round + 1”.Join L-E.
     

    Attached Files:

    Jay17, karsat86, stilldeshi and 9 others like this.
    Loading...

  2. sharadau

    sharadau Gold IL'ite

    Messages:
    892
    Likes Received:
    341
    Trophy Points:
    145
    Gender:
    Female
    Dear Vani thank you very much for the detail explation of the saree blouse cutting. sharada
     
  3. Lencymol

    Lencymol Gold IL'ite

    Messages:
    1,678
    Likes Received:
    331
    Trophy Points:
    158
    Gender:
    Female
    wow..... detail explation. Thank you for sharing.
     
  4. ZOVA

    ZOVA Gold IL'ite

    Messages:
    1,202
    Likes Received:
    215
    Trophy Points:
    135
    Gender:
    Female
    thanks...dear vani mam..............for the detailed tutorial...for blouse
     
  5. excrafter

    excrafter New IL'ite

    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Gender:
    Female
    Artvani, Thanks for posting details. I think this may be an appropriate question here. How to adjust wrinkles/little fold in front of the armpts (above the dart Q in the diagram)? Is it due to excess front length (A- B) or from shoulder to armpit (c-I length) The other question, how to correct if the blouse is sliding slightly off the shoulder (showing Br...)?
    Thanks,
     
  6. artvani

    artvani Platinum IL'ite

    Messages:
    1,631
    Likes Received:
    533
    Trophy Points:
    208
    Gender:
    Female
    If the scye depth is more you get wrinkles near the armpit.It can be corrected by taking a bigger dart near armpit.If the neck line slides off the shoulder and to keep wide and deep neck in place neck round can be reduced by cutting off 1/4 inch near the button stand edges.This means the button stand is curved near the neck edge. Edge of shoulder line near the neck line is also chopped off a little bit.These things make the neck line to stay in place.Ah .. I had forgotten to add one thing if the shoulder
    line is more neck line will slide. Waist should be tight.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 22, 2011
  7. suryayasaswini

    suryayasaswini Silver IL'ite

    Messages:
    1,431
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    68
    Gender:
    Female
    thank u mam for the detailed procedure.
     
  8. madhoo78

    madhoo78 Bronze IL'ite

    Messages:
    572
    Likes Received:
    20
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Gender:
    Female
    thank you very much ma'm for the detailed procedure and also clearing that doubt about wrinkles near the arm. even i had the same doubt.
     
  9. excrafter

    excrafter New IL'ite

    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Gender:
    Female
    Thanks for clarifying. It has been bugging me since long.
     
  10. rosary

    rosary Gold IL'ite

    Messages:
    1,245
    Likes Received:
    117
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Gender:
    Female
    you are doing a great job
    thank you
     

Share This Page