Fishkeeping for beginners

Discussion in 'Pets and Animal Lovers' started by aproop, May 22, 2008.

  1. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Fishkeeping is a rewarding, relaxing hobby, however looking after fish properly is as involved as looking after
    any other animal and it is important to learn some basics before buying anything.

    Your utmost concern must always be the fishes welfare (and as dying fish never look good, probably your only concern).
    This means learning a little about water chemistry and other things that you may feel are a little too scientific.
    However knowing about potential problems will help you avoid them so it's worth persevering.

    Indoor Types: Coldwater, Tropical and Marine.

    Coldwater fish are a group of fish that thrive at 50-74°F, generally the easiest fish to keep, especially for those
    who live in temperate climates.
    Tropical fish are the largest group of fish available and are mostly prettier than coldwater fish.
    A tropical tank will need heat and lighting to simulate the environment that these fish naturally occur in.
    Marine tanks are the hardest (and most expensive) environment to maintain and are probably not suitable for beginners.

    In the wild the natural environment provides for a fish's needs. This includes light, warmth, the supply of oxygen
    and food plus the removal of harmful compounds such as urine and faeces.

    In the aquarium it is up to you to provided these essentials. Light is usually provided by fluorescent tubes controlled
    by a timer device, mounted in the aquarium hood.

    Food requirements vary species to species. Oxygen absorption at the water surface usually needs to be increased
    via an air-pump or powerhead that often also powers the filtration system.

    Aquarium water usually needs both mechanical and biological filtration to remove water borne solids (mechanical) and
    harmful dissolved toxins via the nitrogen cycle.
    These toxins, if allowed to build up, lead to fish stress and death. Some toxins will however remain so partial water
    changes must be carried out using conditioned water, the frequency and amount vary, ask you retailer for advice (develop a good
    rapport with your aquatic retailer who will be able to advise you in more detail, including any regional variations, on your chosen hobby)

    So along with the tank, you'll need lighting, a pump/powerhead/filter and possibly a heater.

    Now you'll need fish that interests you the most and have a look at some of the fish available and learn about
    their natural environment and how to recreate it. However there is one thing you should keep in mind if you
    intend to keep more than one species of fish in a tank (a community aquarium), compatibility.

    The fish that share a tank need to be compatible with each other. You must check that the fish you choose
    can share the same water hardness and pH, temperature requirements are similar, the flow of water is suitable and
    that they won't fight or eat each other.

    Avoid the temptation to rush out and buy whatever you fancy, enjoy the planning stage, take your time and your
    hobby will be far more rewarding as a result.

    love,
    anu
     
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  2. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Part II

    By choosing the right kind of aquarium, equipment, plants, decorations and optional accessories we lay the basis for the healthy conditions in our fish tanks, setting up the closed environment in such a way that your fish can thrive.

    For the beginner the standard and inexpensive rectangular 55 gallon all glass aquarium with the approximate measurements of 48 inches long by 12 inches wide and 20 inches tall is recommended A common misconception of small fish equals small tank is not always true as the smaller fish tend to be more active and need more space to swim in.

    Setting up your Tank

    Step1
    A day before you buy the fish, cover the bottom of your fish tank with 1 1/2 to 3 inches of clean aquarium gravel or sand.
    Rinse the plants you are going to use in clear water and embed them in the gravel or sand. Fill the tank with tap water,
    careful not to uproot plants.
    Let the tank stand, at least 24 hours.(uncovered) When it's time to add your fish to the fish tank, float the fish around in
    their plastic bag until it's the same temperature as the tank water. (no longer than 30 minutes)

    Step2
    Keep the aquarium out of direct sun-light.( tank could become over-heated and algae will grow quicker)
    If you cannot get proper light, you can install a fluorescent light placed above the fish tank.

    Step3
    To care for your fish tank, use a glass scraper with a long handle to remove algae from the sides.
    Siphon the bottom of the tank, replacing it with water that has been sitting for 24 hours.
    (tools can be purchased at any pet store)

    Note: slope or slant the gravel or sand to make it a little hollow in the middle because it will
    catch dirt and make it easier to clean.

    love,
    Anu
     
  3. Sumathy

    Sumathy Senior IL'ite

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    Dear Anu,

    A very informative post. Thanks for the same. Recently somebody gifted us a small fish tank and a couple of fishes died within a few days. We all felt so bad and I have been looking up for tips to maintain them well. Thanks again,

    Cheers,

    Sumathy
     
  4. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Dear Sumathy,

    Thats really sad. But dont worry....you can try again. I will continue to post more on the subject which will help you.

    thankyou for writing in.

    regards,
    Anu
     
  5. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Part III

    The Cover:
    Every aquarium should have a cover or top. It reduces evaporation, provides a solid surface to place the lights and prevents the fish from jumping out.
    The most common tank cover is made up of glass with a hinge in the center and a plastic filler strip which can be cut to fit the filter and other accessories. They are usually called a "Glass Canopy".

    Tank Stands:
    The placement of the aquarium is one of the choices that must be taken into consideration. Water is heavy weighing 8.3 pounds per gallon, so whatever you plan to place the tank on must be able to support a lot of weight.

    Tank Placement:
    You would think that where to put your new fish tank is just a matter of where you want it. This could be true, but there are a couple of things to consider before you set up. You don't want the tank in an area that receives a lot of direct sunlight, you will be forever battling algae and also the temperature swings could hurt your fish. The same holds true if you place the tank on a north facing exterior wall, you might want to turn up your heaters capacity as this tends to be the cooler sides of homes. Make sure that wherever you place it, it has a nice level floor area.

    Safety: Various electrical devices such as filters, heaters, lights and powerheads are necessary to create the right conditions for our fish and plants. Everyone knows that water and electricity don't mix. Few precautions to be taken :
    • Use only devices that are made specifically for aquarium use.
    • Make sure the device has the United Laboratory (UL) seal of approval.
    • Use a power strip with a built in circuit breaker or better yet a ground fault device.
    • Unplug ALL wires before you do anything in or around the tank.
    • Inspect your equipment regularly, discard any questionable items.
    • Better to have any electrical work performed by a licensed Electrician.
    Heaters: If you plan on keeping Tropical fish, an aquarium heater is necessary even in a heated room. Automatic heaters with built in thermostats that turn the heater on and off in response to changes in water temperature are the best. There are three basic types.
    • Rod type heaters: These heaters attach vertically to the wall of the aquarium. They can either be submersible or not. They are adjusted by a dial that is located on the top. Never submerse a heater that does not say it can be.
    • Bottom heaters: These heaters use cables attached to the bottom of the tank before the substrate is added. They have the advantage of being invisible and are excellent for plant tanks. They usually require a separate temperature sensor and are quite expensive.
    • Thermofilters : These are a filter with a built in heating element. They too are invisible, but are very expensive.
    Heater capacity : Two watts of power per gallon of tank size is usually sufficient at normal room temperatures of 66 degrees F. to 72 degree F, for cooler rooms increase the capacity to 4 watts per gallon. If you live in a cooler climate and go away make sure you leave your house heat set at a temperature that aquarium heater will be able to handle.

    love,
    Anu

     
  6. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Part IV

    Thermometers:
    Every tank should have some sort of thermometer in order to read the temperature inside the tank. These are usually the stick-on type that come in different styles and ranges, there are also floating glass types.

    Air Pumps: Air Pumps, One of the first devices made for use in the aquarium still continue to play an important part in aquarium keeping. No longer a necessity, Air pumps today can be used as a source of supplemental water circulation and Oxygen supply.
    Rising bubbles agitate the water surface and help in the gas exchange of carbon dioxide and other harmful chemicals. Air pumps can be used to power the vast array of aquarium ornaments from the opening and closing clam and treasure chest to the free flying UFO and scuba divers. A more laid back use would be to power an airstone or bubble wall and in Salt water the low end Protein skimmer. There are battery operated air pumps which can used in the case of a power failure or on long collecting trips.

    Air Pump Valves: In Conjunction with the air pump there are two kinds of valves to use, Gang valves and check valves.
    • Gang valves are used as a distribution center for the air produced by the pump, they come in sets of one to five and any number can be combined. Each unit will have a small dial which allows you to regulate the amount of air flow through it, you must have an air pump that is capable of handling the amount of air lines you have or the air flow will be lessened and of no use to you. Gang Valves come in either Brass or Plastic, with Brass being my choice for strength and longevity.
    • Check valves should be used on every pump installation. They prevent water from back siphoning down the air line and into the pump during power failures and accidental unplugging and burn-outs. It is possible to drain an entire aquarium through the air line as well as cause permanent damage to the pump. Check valves are installed after the pump outlet and before any gang valves and is a matter of simply cutting the tubing and placing the valve "in line".
    Air Stones: Air stones come in many shapes and sizes and can be made of plastic, wood, glass and other materials. There are long and slender ones called walls or wands and can be used to "bubble the entire back of the aquarium. Air stones not only come in different sizes they also come with different bubble sizes. Fine bubbles are used mostly in Protein skimmers, for their ability to scrub the water. Air stones must be sized to the right size air pump to work properly. Many things affect the size pump needed to power Airstones, such as the depth of the tank, size of the Air stone, size of the bubbles and the the number of stones to be used.

    Power Heads: Power heads are small versatile water pumps that were designed for use with the under-gravel filter. They replace the air stone at the bottom of each lift tube and mount to the top, greatly increasing the water flow through the gravel. Some can be used as "reverse flow" pumps which force water through the gravel from the bottom to the top. Today we use power heads for increased circulation, as a source of power for protein skimmers, water pumps for wet-dry sumps and for just about anything that requires water flow. A very useful Item to have on hand.

    love,
    Anu

     
  7. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Part V

    Lighting:
    Today there are many types to choose from, including the Incandescent, Fluorescent and the Metal Halide.
    • Incandescent: Incandescent bulbs are used in lamps, desk lights and spotlights etc., giving a natural pleasing light but are useful for only the smallest of aquariums. They give off a lot of heat and are not energy efficient.
    • Fluorescent: This is the most widely used aquarium lighting. They come in all lengths and wattage. They also can be made to any color spectrum from the Red to the Blue-White. These bulbs can be used on Freshwater plant tanks to Salt water Mini-Reef set ups. The fixtures for these bulbs are as diverse as the bulbs . There is the simple one bulb fixture, the multiple bulb type, where you can mix and match different color bulbs for that custom look.
    • Full spectrum or Daylight bulbs: Full spectrum or Daylight bulbs try to closely imitate the look of natural sunlight. They provide a wide spectrum of Red, Yellow, Blue and Green light. These type bulbs are a good choice for use in most aquarium applications. They are also used at the same time with the Actinic bulbs used in Salt water setups. Full spectrum and Daylight bulbs offer a natural appearance and provide a good source of light for Freshwater plants.
    • Actinic bulbs: Actinic bulbs provide their spectrum in the range required for the the Photosynthetic process and health of Marine corals and Invertebrates and to a lesser extent freshwater plants. Actinic bulbs should not be used alone , but in conjunction with other full spectrum bulbs. Actinic bulbs are heavy in the blue light and can give everything a bluish tint.
    • Other bulbs: There are also available many hybrid bulbs which contain a mix of full spectrum and Actinic Phosphors, these can be useful where you have a light fixture that can hold only one.
    • Metal-Halide: The new kind on the block, Metal-Halides are the ultimate in aquarium lighting (and price). They are the best lights for Freshwater plant tanks as well as Saltwater mini-Reefs. These bulbs produce a very bright, high quality light. They come in the the most varied of color temperatures ranging from 4000o to 20000o Kelvin and the Actinic 03 needed by Reef tanks.
    Metal Halide fixtures are designed to either hang above the fish tank or be mounted in special tops, in order to disperse the light and the amount of heat radiated to the aquarium. Although the ultimate in lighting, due to their high cost and special safety requirements, it is not recommend for the beginner.

    There are four main aquarium lighting situations.

    1. A Freshwater tank with no live plants.
    2. A Freshwater tank with live plants.
    3. A Saltwater fish only tank.
    4. A Saltwater Reef or semi Reef tank containing live corals and invertebrates as well as fish.

    Freshwater tank with no live plants:
    This type aquarium can be lit with Fluorescent lamps designed with color enhancement or simple shop lights available at the hardware store. The number of tubes and the duration of the lighting are not critical, as you only want to see your fish. Incandescent bulbs can be used on smaller set ups under 10 gallons in size. One drawback to this lighting is that as water quality goes down the growth of the undesirable brown and black algae becomes a problem.

    Freshwater tank with live plants:
    The options and choices involved in this type set up are a little more diverse. The plants in the tank need more high quality light for Photosynthesis. Here you can use two different types of systems.
    • Metal Halide systems provide the best lighting for aquarium plants. These lights provide intense high quality light without the need for multiple tubes. Metal Halide systems are very costly and are out of the reach of most beginner hobbyist.
    • Fluorescent systems can provide enough light for plants, but you will have to use multiple tubes. The bulbs chosen should be full spectrum to allow for photosynthesis, the so called aquarium plant lights sold are not the best choice.
    Fluorescent lamps come in different types the normal output (NO) or the very high output (VHO) are the most common. The VHO bulbs produce much more light than the NO bulbs but require a special ballast to ignite them. Multiple fluorescent tube fixtures are the best choice for the beginner.

    Saltwater fish only tanks: These set ups can be lit with multiple full spectrum fluorescent lamps in either the normal output or the vho system. Although the light is not required for the fish you want to make sure that is of a quality that will promote the growth of the Green algae that some marine fish relish. Insufficient light will promote the growth of the undesirable algae.

    Saltwater reef and semi reef set ups: These set ups need very intense high quality lighting. Smaller tanks can be lit with multiple fluorescent tubes, while the larger tanks will need VHO or Metal Halide systems. Proper photosynthesis can only happen with intense full spectrum lighting. Improper lighting in reef aquariums will cause the Zooxanthellae in Anemones and corals to die and they will shrink to nothing. It is important to know that lighting in a reef tank is more important than filtration.

    love,
    Anu
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2008
  8. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Part VI

    Filtration:
    Aquarium filters are available in all types and shapes to suit any need. A good filter will provide for high water quality and keep the water crystal clear for viewing.

    Types of Filtration:
    • Mechanical: This is simply the removal of suspended particles of waste, excess food, plant matter and general dirt from the aquarium.
      Most filters employ some sort of mechanical filtration through filter floss, pads or sponges that trap the waste as water passes through it.
    • Chemical: This is achieved through the use of various media or resins placed in the filter, which removes dissolved waste materials such as fish waste, etc., that can cause odors and discoloration of the aquarium water. Chemical media placed inside the filter can also remove Phosphates, Nitrates, Ammonia and many other toxins. The most common form of Chemical filtration is the use of activated carbon.
    • Biological: The most misunderstood type of filtration, Biological filtration is the process in which beneficial bacteria convert organics that have been broken down into the toxic elements of Ammonia and Nitrite into the less harmful compound Nitrate. It can be then removed by water changes or chemical means. The process of Biological filtration does not happen fast and usually takes between four to six weeks to be established. The bacteria will colonize all surfaces of the tank and filter. Some filters are designed to promote these bacteria through the use of special media. Most complaints of cloudy water are due to lack of a good bacterial filter, which causes the bacteria to float freely around the tank.

    Types of Filters:
    There are many different types of filters available including:

    1. Canister: These are usually placed under the fish tank, hidden in the stand. There are available capacity sizes from ten to hundreds of gallons. They provide Mechanical and Chemical filtration and some have compartments for Biological as well.

    Hose intakes and returns connect the filter to the tank and can be isolated through the use of valves. These filters can run a long time between cleanings and maintain great water quality and are virtually silent.

    2. Power Filters : These are probably the most common of aquarium filters. easy to install and maintain and provide both mechanical and chemical filtration.

    3. Undergravel Filters: The sole purpose of this filter is to provide biological filtration. It is a series of plates put under the gravel and water is drawn through it, either by an air pump or power head. An additional filter must be used to provide for mechanical filtration. This type of filter has fallen out of favor, but still does its job and should be considered.

    4. Wet/Dry: The latest rage in filtration, the wet/dry provides all three types of filtration. It is large open filter that sits under the tank and has sections for each of the types of filtration. You can even place the heater in the sump of the filter.

    Wet/Dry filters are mostly used by the mini reef community as their higher water quality needs are met by this type filter. These units usually do not include all needed items, pumps etc. Once set up the maintenance of these filters is easy.

    5. Submersible Filters: These are small specialized filters that mount inside the tank. They mainly provide mechanical filtration and circulation and can be used in hospital or fry tanks. The units must be removed from the tank for cleaning, making them not the most convenient filters to have. They do have their uses and should be considered under certain circumstances.

    6. Diatom Filters : These are highly specialized filters used to "polish" the water. They use Diatomaceous earth powder to coat a filter bag and filters water down to microns in size. Due to the high efficiency of these filters, they are to be used only sporadically and for short periods of time. If you have more than one aquarium a Diatom filter is a good thing to have.

    Filter Media: There are a large amount of filter media available from almost every aquarium product maker, for every type of filter. There are so many, that the choice of which ones to use can be very difficult and sometimes frustrating to find the one which will do what you want.
    • Mechanical Filtration Media: This media is used to remove all sizes of free floating waste material from the tank water. There are many kinds available, but they all serve the function stated above. Some of the more common types are:
    1. Floss
    2. Sponges
    3. Pads
    4. Sheets

    The mechanical filter media should always be placed first so that any aquarium water must pass through it before the more expensive media. Many filters come with custom made filter replacements that fit perfectly and make replacement very easy.
    • Biological Filtration Media: This media purpose is solely to provide a large surface area to promote the growth of the beneficial Aerobic bacteria. This bacteria is responsible for the nitrogen cycle and breaks down the deadly Ammonia and Nitrites into the less harmful Nitrates. It to comes in many different forms, all with a large surface area to size ratio. Some common shapes are:
    1. Balls
    2. Tubes
    3. Spheres
    4. Beads
    5. Cubes

    Biological filtration is the most important form of filtration for without it, the accumulation of fish waste will rise until the levels reach a point where fish can no longer survive. The media is usually placed in the filter after a good mechanical pre-filter to maintain cleanliness.


    • Chemical Filtration Media: These media are designed to remove dissolved compounds that are not wanted in the aquarium water. Each media is designed to remove a specific compound and sometimes are combined together to make super cleaners. Some of the compounds that can be removed through Chemical media are:
    1. Odors
    2. Colors
    3. Ammonia
    4. Nitrite
    5. Phosphates and Nitrates

    The media usually come in their own bag and are placed in the filter after the Mechanical media. They remove the compounds in one of two ways, Absorption or Adsorption . Both ways provide high quality filtration and can reduce the number of water changes, while at the same time providing your fish with a cleaner healthier environment.


    Decorations
    All kinds of materials can be arranged to give shape to the interior of the aquarium. You can elect to set up a natural Biotope tank or go with a completely whimsical set up with castles and all types of air powered objects. However you decide to aquascape, there are a few materials used in the tank that have important uses other than aesthetics.
    Gravel or substrate, sand, stones caves, driftwood, roots and plants all play a part in the health and well being of an aquarium and its inhabitants. I will discuss them here.
    • Bottom Material: Quartz gravel and river sand along with most gravels available at the pet store are usually fine to use as long as they don't contain calcium and the fish you plan to keep have no special requirements.
    An average size of one to three millimeter is good. The choice of color is up to you and is available in all shades of the rainbow. preferably the natural stone over the dyed colors.
    A note of caution, some gravel can raise your pH and you will never be able to lower it, always test a small sample by placing some gravel in a cup and covering it with household Vinegar, if it bubbles its calciferous and will raise your pH, don't use it. Trust me on this as I had a plant tank that I could not maintain below pH 7.5 and was going crazy as to why, it was the gravel and all is fine now.

    Substrate for a plant tank is set up differently, first you should put down a layer of fertilizer or Laterite and then cover with your normal gravel. All gravel should be thoroughly washed prior to being placed in the aquarium.

    love,
    anu

     
  9. aproop

    aproop Bronze IL'ite

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    Part VII

    Rocks:
    You can build caves and entire structures out of rocks. Rocks provide fish with shelter, places to hide and places to lay eggs.
    They also can be used as territorial boundaries, which is essential to many fish. Use only Calcium free rocks like Granite, Slate, Sandstone and Lava. You should build any rock structures directly on the tank bottom, before you add the gravel to prevent any anaerobic bacteria beds from forming.

    Driftwood and Roots:
    Driftwood and roots make great hiding places for fish. They can also serve for a place to put your plants that don't live in the substrate, like the Java Fern. They can also provide a source of roughage for the Corydoras and other Mailed Catfish.
    Roots and driftwood also tend to soften and lower the pH of the water. One word of caution, most livebearers prefer their water on the Alkaline side so too much driftwood could be detrimental to them. The best place to get your driftwood or roots is from a supplier who can guarantee their source, as the process of curing your own is not easy and most wood from the forest would just rot in the tank.

    Plants: The true beauty of an aquascape is brought to life by the use of plants. Whether plastic or live to create a "complete aquarium" all the decor should be complemented by the use of plants.
    Plastic plants today come in all shapes and sizes and come so close in look to live plants its sometimes hard to tell them apart. When decorating with plastic plants please try to keep in mind what type of plants would be growing in nature.

    Buying and Acclimating Fish:

    A few simple precautions and things to look for when you go out to purchase new fish can save you a lot of frustration later. I will list some things to keep in mind here.
    • Before you buy any fish try to find out some information on it. Find out what water conditions it prefers; pH, Hardness etc. Find out if it has any specific dietary needs and how it interacts with other fish.
    • Make sure your tank meets the conditions you researched.
    • Make sure the fish looks well fed, its stomach well rounded. Ask the dealer to feed the fish, so you can see him eat. Trust no one!
    • Don't worry much about color. Fish in the dealers tanks rarely show off their true colors.
    • Check the fishes health, no clamped fins, no white fungus, no panting or rubbing. The fish should be active and alert.
    • Never buy a fish from a tank with sick fish in it. Check the filtration, some use a central system, which means the water in one tank is the same as all the others.
    • Make sure you don't submit the fish to a wide temperature swing on the way home, hot or cold.
    • Combine species only with the same water and temperature needs.
    • Combine species only with the same food needs.
    • If your fish are territorial move the aquascape around a little to give your new fish a chance to claim his area.
    • Don't over crowd the tank!
    Acclimating the new fish : Let the plastic bag your new fish is in float on the tanks surface for about fifteen minutes to equalize the temperature. Remove the bag and open it into a small plastic bucket. Add some tank water to the bucket. Continue adding water 'till the bucket is about half tank water and half fish store water. Then net out the fish and let as much of the water drip off the net as possible. Release the fish to the tank. Never dump the bag into your tank, you don't know what's in its water! Keep a close eye on the fish and make sure its settled in.

    Tank Maintenance
    Here is a general listing of chores that have to be done regularly on your fish tank. They are meant only as a starting point and as you gain experience and your tank matures you will develop your own system of maintaining tank. A basic schedule here is given below.

    Daily:
    • Observe your fish, are there any signs of disease or Parasites? Are any fish being bullied?
    • When your feeding are all the fish eating? Don't be afraid to skip a day feeding, your fish won't starve.
    • Check your equipment. Check temperature. Check filter flow and cleanliness.
    • Remove any dead fish or plants.
    Weekly:
    • Do a partial water change about 10% will be fine. Remember to have the water the same temperature and pH.
    • Clean the glass in and out. Clean the top and light fixture.
    • Vacuum a small portion of your gravel.
    Note: if you have a gravel cleaning syphon you can do this when you change the water.

    Monthly:
    • Change your filter top layer and carbon.
    • Thin out and cut back plants that need it.
    • Clean the filter and impeller as per the manufacturers instructions.
    • Perform all your water test to see "what's" going on.
    • Check your food supply.
    Periodically:
    • Change your florescent light bulbs.
    • Clean all your tank decorations.
    love
    Anu
     
  10. Paulina

    Paulina Moderator Staff Member Platinum IL'ite

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    Dear Anu,

    That was such a valuable post for fish lovers( I mean those who keep fish as pets and not the edible ones on the dining table ! ) and I have learnt some tips from you now.

    We have been maintaining an aquarium for 4 years and sometimes we do have casualities...all because of water borne problems.

    We have at the moment 9 members in the tank 4 goldfish ,a pair of Calico Gold,A Japanese Carp, a black / grey shark, 1 huge tank cleaner.There is peaceful co existence so far.We feed them twice a day.During colder months Dec- Feb we use the heaters too.

    Watching them is very relaxing and I like the way they all congeregate at feeding time when their food granules are floating in the water.Sometimes they play their own fishy games., like chasing each other and hiding in between the plants.We've kept only the artificial plants ( easy to maintain )and a few shells.

    warm regards
    PAULINA:wave
     

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