Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instructions

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

Hi Sunitha,

Thanks once again for all that effort to find that sleeve pattern for me.

I want to make one addition to that pattern.

The pattern in that link Flipkart.com: Techniques Of Drafting And Pattern Making: Padmavati B.: Books Buy Drafting And Pattern Making in India pg 57


is for a 2yr old baby. If we use the same measurements for an adult, it will result in a very loose sleeve. This is because a child’s garment needs more ease ie.. looseness to allow for growth than an adult garment. So the amount of ease for growth will decrease as a child grows.

Wearing ease and fashion ease will be according to the kind of garment being made. Comparatively, the saree blouse will have a tight armhole, a kameez will have a looser armhole and a nightie will require greatest ease.

I am attaching calculations for various sizes. - Armscye lengths.xls


But the book I am referring to is not very clear on some points. They will need checking out, as and when I stitch. These are my estimates.

• This includes approx 1cm ease at the bicep, going by my calculations and the example from B.Padmavati's book.
• That which is calculated seems appropriate for kameez. Go one size smaller for saree blouse and one size bigger for nightie.
• Men’s garments are generally not so fitted. So they can have the same armscye length for all sizes. ( Thangam Subramaniam.) . In this book, I find some men’s patterns with Chest/4 – 1cm for the bicep. This seems reasonable.

Cheers
Geetha

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

hi geetha,

i could not view the doccument. Could u pls post it again?

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

Hi Geetha,

Thanks for that sheet of measurements. I will look into and try them some time.
I was not able to view your post so long although I could see in the thread list that you have posted but when I opened the thread, I could not see your post.

Thanks again.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

Hi Sabari,

Thanks for your interest. My post is visible now.
When you draft sleeves, do you use a constant chest/6 + 3/2" as bicep measurement/armhole length for all sizes and fit ?

Hi Sunitha,
And what about you ? what do you use for Bicep measurement ?

Regards
Geetha

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

hi geetha,

yes, i use chest/6+1" for armscye calculation. the fitting is decided by chest width- ch/ 4 for blouse and any formula u wish to for chudidhar and by the curve of armscye, which i have explained earlier. This formula is v. comfortable , be it a saree blouse [ tight garment] or a salwar / nightie [ loose fitting] . I have showed one nightie stitched by me also so as to clarify y'r doubt. Try it and u'll not ask me again.

for men's it is diferent. If i am right , it is ch/4-.5" [ not sure, need to check].

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

dussehra wishes to all.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

Hello everybody,

Happy Vijayadashami. Belated though. my computer was down yesterday.

Regards
Geetha

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi Sabari,

I was not able to view your post and hence this late reply. Well, I have not yet tried the sleeves.

In the meanwhile, I am attaching a Kameez that I finished sewing 2 days ago. I have attached a yolk with simple hand embroidery. The colors are used to match the colors in the printed salwar and the dupatta. I just set the stitch width to maximum in the sewing machine and made simple straight stitches in semi circular fashion. Then I have whipped these straight stitches with anchor stranded cotton threads of matching colors.

Please let me know your feedback.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

wow, wow, wow, sunitha . kannai parikkuthey! Thenk u so much for sharing as to how u did it. So, u said u had set the machinbe to max stitch width. What type of a decorative stitch is this - triple strength [ where u get an effect of a 3 strands of threads ] ? Though, it is a whipped stitch ,to me it looks like rick rack one. I meant to say that the effect is great.

The neckline is perfect. And, did u give piping for the sleeve? I am waiting to see the salwar pant too.

Can u share the pattern with us.?